The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on